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Fruity Wine Woes Thursday, 02 May 2013 00:00 |  | 
 A few weeks ago we were discussing various wine terms and their meanings. This weekend I was confronted with one that upon first inspection seems very simple, but is fraught with misunderstanding. Fruit. Seems simple enough, we all know what a fruit is. Now there are those weird fruits such as tomatoes and peppers that most of us still call vegetables. I am not talking about this kind of ambiguity. What I am discussing is the definition of fruit in wine that many people misunderstand.  Let me begin by saying that almost every wine you buy in a store should exhibit some sort of fruit characteristic. Even aged Tawny ports with ten to twenty years still have some raisin and quince. There are very aged wines that no longer taste of fruit but these are usually not available in stores. More often than not, if they have reached this point, they are probably past their peak. The question to be asked is not, “Do I want a fruity wine?” but, “Do I want the fruit to be the primary characteristic?”  I am sure that by this point we have all read wine reviews that speak of wine scents such as leather, spice, earth and the like. I have used descriptions such as these myself in many instances. If you notice, even these wines list fruit descriptors such as blackberry and cassis (black currant). In these and in some older wines the non-fruit characteristics have taken the forefront. This type of wine is usually described as “Earthy”. When you initially smell these wines the first thing you are reminded of is not fruit, but some other aroma such as those listed above. If this is your cup of tea then you will have better luck shopping the Italian and French aisles.  In contrast, when you smell a wine and the first thought that comes to your mind is some sort of fruit such as apple or peach or cherry, then what this is called is a “Fruit Forward” wine. This means that the fruit is at the forefront and other, secondary, aromas are in the background. The big problem comes with the perception that fruit is sweet.  While the aromas we are detecting in the wines do smell like sweet fruits, they are in fact due to chemical compounds in the wines that our noses and brains translate into familiar scents such as apples. Because we have been conditioned over our lives that fruit is inherently sweet we automatically think that when we smell these flavors the wine is sweet. This is not necessarily the case as the compounds causing the aromas do not contribute the sugars that one would find in the fruit. This leads to a dry, fruit forward wine.  If this later style of wine is your fave then check out California, Chile, Argentina or Australia. These countries are collectively considered “New World” wine producing nations. There are others such as South Africa and New Zealand, but the easier thing to remember is anything that isn’t Europe is considered “New World”. This Is in contrast to those “Earthy” wines from Europe AKA “The Old World”.  The coolest way to experience this is to do side by side tastings of each style. In this Friday’s class we will be sampling rosĂ©s that demonstrate this. If this sounds like fun and you can’t make it Friday, try this neat comparison: Â
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   ~ Randy Freeland ~  Prices good through 5/8/13. Add new comment
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Ben Glaetzer, Wallace 
Chave, Cotes du Rhone Mon Coeur 
Crios Torrontes 2011, Enticing aromas that are strikingly similar to Viognier, with hints of peach pit, white pear, flowers, and orange citrus fruit. On the palate, it has beautiful structure and acidity similar to Sauvignon Blanc along with enticing fruit flavors that keep you coming back for another sip and plenty of body for a wine that shows such delicate aromas and flavors. Fruity, floral and yet still quite dry, this wine has to be tasted to be believed. 
Colome Torrontes 2011, Intense gold color with straw edges. This wine offers the floral notes of roses and the citrus aroma of grapefruit with an enticing hint of spice. On the palate its vibrant acidity creates a fresh mouthfeel to accent the round body full of tropical fruit leading to an elegantly long finish. 
Loscano Torrontes, Flowery and fruity aromas are present in this refreshing wine with touches of roses and white peach. This elegant yellow wine has excellent concentration and a memorable vanilla flavor from aging in oak barrels. 
Vega Del Castillo, Rosado de Lagrima, Navarra 2010: Clear, bright raspberry tinged wine produced from the teardrop (de lagrima) juice of a selection of our best Garnacha grapes. Intense fruit aromas, smooth and balanced on the palate. Ideal accompaniment to fish, rice, light dishes and starters. 
Saint Roch Les Vignes, Cotes de Provence, 2011: The Saint Roch les Vignes Côtes de Provence Rosé is France’s quintessential quaffer. An unadulterated blend of Grenache and Cinsault, this excellent import value is the perfect summer wine to share in the shade. 
Victor Hugo, Les Mis, Paso Robles Rose 2011: Enticing aromas of mandarin oranges and lavender predominate with some floral components in the background create lush flavors. This wine has a somewhat fleshy, supple mid-palate followed by a clean, crisp finish. 
Fat Louis Cabaret Rosé. Blushing, crystalline rosé color in the glass, with wild strawberry and lively red fruit aromas. A fresh, smooth and harmoniously balanced finale on the palate. Spectacular! Encore, Fat Louis! 50% Grenache 50% Cinsault in stainless steel vats with light alcohol make this a very refreshing way to go. 
Dubeouf Beaujolais-Village. There is charming sweetish red crushed berry fruit, strawberry fruit roll-ups, red currant juice, carnelian flower, stewed strawberry, red licorice Twizzlers, raspberry coulis and warm floral mineral scents. On the palate: There is immediate sweetish red strawberry fruit; fresh, lively red forest berries; raspberry zest; and nice, rounded, balanced red fruit flavors throughout the midpalate. A lovely light but solid finish. 
Las Rochas Rosado. "The Las Rocas Rosado is produced from a bleeding of the tanks for the red Las Rocas. Made from 100% Garnacha, it is dark pink in color and offers up a fragrant nose of kirsch and strawberry. Full-flavored and ripe, this tasty wine should prove to be remarkably food-versatile. Drink it over the next 12-18 months. It is also an excellent value." 
PavĂŁo Vinho Verde and a selection of cheese and sausage. One trip to Portugal and it will become evident that the Portuguese have a wonderful love affair with pork. Every meal includes a variety of sausages that are great by themselves or when paired with one of the most popular wines of Portugal, Vinho Verde. The translated name (Green Wine) of these wines refers to the freshness and youth of the wines, not necessarily to their colors they can come in a range of hews from white to red and anywhere in between. Slightly bubbly with a touch of sweetness, regardless of the color, they are all fantastic aperitif wines that pair perfectly with a wide range of noshes. 
Alandra White and Bacalhau a Gomes De Sa. While there is pork everywhere, the national dish of Portugal is known as Bacalhau (Salt Cod). The Portuguese claim that there are enough recipes to prepare Bacalhau to fix a different one every day. All I know is, when prepared this way, it makes magic with the wine. The fragrant floral nose gives way to a palate lush with citrus brightening this dish while allowing the flavors to meld. Neither the food nor the wine steps alone to the forefront. To quote Peter Townsend, “One and one don’t make two, they make one.” 
Assobio and Portuguese Braised Short Ribs. We are now stepping away from the delicate flavors that are mingling about with the luscious whites and diving head first into full on gluttony. This hedonistic pairing matches the weight of some of the best red grapes the country has to offer with the slow cooked goodness of beef. Don’t miss out as the masculinity of this dish is stroked into submission with the power of this awesome wine. One of the great Portuguese values that you will enjoy over and over this summer with your grill. 
Cockburn’s Special Reserve Port and Chocolate Torte. With the last course we will leap into decadence the dessert on the plate and the dessert in the glass pair to create a harmony that can’t be beat. What could be better than warm chocolate dripping with lush flavors of red cherry with hints of strawberry and plum? The wine acting as a fruity complement to the luscious chocolate will finish our night on a perfect note.